Up TVR 1 TVR 2 TVR 3 TVR 4 TVR 5 TVR 6

Removing the Body

Firstly the front inner wheel arches came off then the bonnet.

Next the exhaust, this came off a bit unexpectedly. I undid the exhaust at the front at the lower joint of the Cat by-pass pipes, the unscrewed the rear mounting bolt. This left the center two bolts to be undone. The first one came off easily, the second was almost undone when the I dropped the spanner onto the floor of the pit, as I bent down to pick it up the nut, which must have been held on by the last thread, came off. I just managed to break the exhaust's fall with the back of my neck! Boy these things are heavy! After a few choice words I decided to call it a night and have a beer.

The petrol tank was next, fist drain the remains into a container and disconnect the fuel sender wires and the petrol hoses. Then the bolts retaining the petrol tank cradle and the petrol tank securing straps were removed and the whole lot lowered out of the way.

The speedo and reversing light switch were disconnected.

Next the all the wiring in the engine bay was disconnected taking care to label each wire to aid re-connection. Heater hoses, expansion tank hose, throttle cable, brake lines, clutch line and steering column were then disconnected. 

Working inside the car the seats were removed (to save weight and gain easy access to the securing bolts), followed by the seat belts and handbrake.

Finally the body securing bolts, eight are visible from under the car (four front and four rear), and the heads are buried under the carpets. Four more bolts which screw into welded inserts on the chassis also need to be removed, two are located under the center console, and two are again buried under carpet adjacent to the lower rear corner of each door. last but not least the six rivets holding the gear change lever rubber gaiter were drilled out.

This done and a final inspection to be sure nothing else was connecting the body to the chassis, the body could be lifted off the chassis. Two options in lifting the body can be employed. 

One is to get as many well built gents as you can (at least six) to assist you, or the other (which I used) is two use two engine hoists and some webbing straps. This process is described below.

  1. Suspend the engine hoists, one above each end of the car to a suitable strong rafter or frame, be sure to pick something strong enough as the body is extremely heavy - possible more so then if it were made out of steel. You have been warned!

  2. Pass a piece of 2"x2" box section (or similar) under the rear of the car behind the rear wheels and support on axel stands so the floor of the boot rest on it. 

  3. Secure a strap to each end of the box section passing through the rear engine hoist, protecting the sides and boot with some sponge or old, clean carpet.

  4. Support the front with two straps, one at each side wrapping round each wing and attaching to the front engine hoist. be sure when placing the straps not to get it caught up in the chassis rails!

  5. Carefully raise the front of the body by 1 to 2 inches.

  6. Next raise the rear of the car by at least 3 1/2 feet so the rear suspension mounts are clear of the body. 

  7. Roll the chassis forward until it will clear the engine 

  8. Raise the front of the body until it is clear of the chassis.

  9. The chassis can then be rolled out of the way and the body lowered onto some suitable supports.

tvr5.jpg (56511 bytes) Body suspended from the garage roof.
tvr6.jpg (53024 bytes) Rear view of the chassis.
tvr7.jpg (49314 bytes) Rear suspension mountings look in bad order but actually just surface rust and very solid - thankfully!
tvr8.jpg (49845 bytes)
tvr9.jpg (50230 bytes) Front off side outrigger totally rusted through.
tvr10.jpg (50454 bytes) Near side in pretty much the same state, note the lack of the outer body mounting plate which fell off when the body was removed.
tvr11.jpg (55611 bytes)